Технологія 3D-друку в текстильній та модній індустріях

Однією з найбільш значущих технологій четвертої промислової революції є 3D-друк. Надзвичайна річ у застосуванні технології тривимірного друку полягає в тому, що її можна використовувати для створення різноманітних предметів, адаптованих до власних потреб. У індустрії моди існує потреба в індивідуальних захисних засобах. У даній роботі представлена можливість застосування нових технологій, таких як 3D-моделювання захисних елементів, які можна зробити за допомогою 3D-принтерів. 3D-моделювання та адитивні технології (3D-друк) можуть бути використані при розробці захисного робочого одягу. Для виготовлення потрібен лише цифровий файл із 3D-моделлю та правильно обраний матеріал. В даному досліджені використано термопластичний поліуретан. Зразки конструкції були побудовані та змодельовані за допомогою програмного забезпечення Rhinoceros. Зразки можуть бути інтегровані в предмет одягу для відтворення форми тіла та забезпечення необхідного захисту. Робота спрямована на вивчення можливості застосування 3D-друку з використанням термопластичного поліуретану для розробки захисного спорядження. У індустрії моди тривимірний (3D) друк використовувався дизайнерами та інженерами для створення різноманітних речей, починаючи від аксесуарів і закінчуючи одягом. Дана робота одна з небагатьох, в якій доведено можливість його застосування в засобах індивідуального захисту. Адитивна технологія та 3D-друк є предметом інтенсивних досліджень та розробок (методи, матеріали, нові техніки, сфери застосування тощо), що продовжено в даному досліджені з використанням термопластичного поліуретану. Розроблено зразки матеріалів, які можуть бути застосовані у захисному одязі.The extraordinary thing about the application of 3D printing technology is that it can be used to create accessible items customized to personal needs. In the fashion industry, there is a need for individualized protective equipment. The possibility of applying new technologies such as 3D modelling of protective elements that can be made by using 3D printers is presented in this paper. 3D modelling and additive technologies (3D printing) can be used in the development of protective work clothing. The fabrication process only requires the digital file with the 3D model and the right material – we chose to use thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). The design samples were constructed and modelled using a software program called Rhinoceros. The samples can be integrated into the clothing item, in order to follow the body shape and to provide the necessary protection. This paper aims to explore the applicability of 3D printing materials using thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) for the development of protective gear. In the fashion industry, three-dimensional (3D) printing has been used by designers and engineers to create everything from accessories to clothing, but only a few studies have investigated its applicability in personal protective equipment. One of the most significant technologies of the fourth industrial revolution is 3D printing. Additive manufacturing and 3D printing are the subject of intensive research and development (methods, materials, new techniques, application areas, etc.). The purpose of this study is to develop 3D printing samples and study conditions related to TPU

A comparative study of heating elements used for the development of textile heaters

The focus of this paper is to make a comparison between five different types of conductive, heatable samples. These textile samples have been produced according to the five most important implementation techniques such as knitting, weaving, embroidery, printing and nonwoven padding. The idea is to identify a conductive option best suitable for a heating application. This study was divided into four major steps: choosing the adequate materials, swatch production, conductivity measurements and heating behaviour assessment. The first three methods use electro conductive wires as heating elements, the fourth uses conductive ink and the fifth uses carbon black coating. For all of them, resistance, current and heat distribution was measured. The results show that the best options for the development of a wearable textile heating system are the embroidered and the woven techniques, as their mechanical strength and elasticity, is sufficiently high and the fabric/substrate structure allows the insertion/deposition of different types of heating element

Clothes Sensor System for Children

AbstractThe paper presents the results of the study regarding the monitoring of the health status of the premature children is realized by the development and the fusion of the sensor systems when the clothes are dressed, and the transmission of information to the doctors and nurses, to the parent. As a clinical tool applied in the monitoring of the vital parameters of the Children, the respiration and the body temperature, thus the system was developed with children's clothing, which are capable of transmitting the information obtained in the body of a baby to assistants or parents

DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILE-RUBBER COMPOSITE MATERIALS USING RECYCLED RUBBER AND TEXTILES WITH APPLICATIONS IN INDUSTRY

This paper study methods to obtain composite materials based on recycled rubber from End-of-Life tires and scrap textile. Rubber particles was obtained by industrial shredding procedures and separated by dimension, using sieves. Recycled cotton weave was obtained from scrap cotton textiles. The composite material was produced mixing the recycled rubber powder with a solution of acrylate rubber (AR), (NipolR AR 51) in acetone/ethyl acetate, then coating that composition on a 100% recycled cotton weave. After application, the composite was dried in a dryer with ventilation. The final composite material will be chemical characterized. Attempts will be made to determine whether the composite can be used as isolation material with temperature dissipation characteristics.</jats:p

DEVELOPMENT OF CLIMBING CLOTHES USING COMPUTERIZED 3D CLOTHING SIMULATION

The purpose. This paper aims to explore the applicability of computerized 3D virtual clothing simulation programs for the development of patterns for men’s rock climbing pants. Methodology. The experiment involved comparative methods of virtual wearing, as well as pressure points, perspective map and appearance evaluations. The theoretical and methodological basis of the research are scientific works presenting data from 3D virtual fitting software. Results. The study selected three designs of climbing pants to compare the layout of patterns and to analyze the appearance through virtual garment fit maps. First, the 2D-to-3D was applied to develop garment patterns of a rock climber’s pants. The patterns were developed directly in the 3D software. The flat patterns can be visualized in the sewing/assembly stage of the prototype. Then, 3D animation technology was used in simulation. The results throughout the study were: 1) 3D simulation of three different types of pants design. 2) Evaluating the fit and comfort of the clothing using garment fitting maps. 3) Identifying the most discomforting parts of the patterns, thigh, hip, waist, pants hem and knee girth. 4) Modify and adjust the clothing according to the evaluation situation. Scientific novelty consists in providing a systematic methodology of utilizing 3D simulation for a specific category of wearers, such as rock climbers. Practical significance. The considered research directions of 3D clothing simulation can be used by designers and patternmakers in the creative and experimental process of designing clothes expanding the possibilities of software to transform functional design in the industry and research.</jats:p

CLOTHES DEVELOPMENT BASED ON METHODS OF HANDLING OF PREMATURE BABIES IN THE INTENSIVE CARE UNIT

The health of children born prematurely remains a significant challenge, but clothing products designed considering medical requirements and handling methods used in the intensive care unit, may contribute to the reduction of neonatal mortality. Assistants in the therapy unit implement practices based on the needs of vulnerable infants, from the very first second of life. This pilot clinical study was conducted in a specialised on neonatal intensive care unit, at the IMSP Municipal Clinical Hospital Gheorghe Paladi from Chisinau. Informed consent of parents and/or careers was required. All users (nurses and doctors) were informed about the product and instructed regarding dressing and undressing process. This controlled study was conducted under the supervision of doctors and nurses. As the study was exploratory in nature, aspects of grounded theory have been used for qualitative data collection. The sample studied consists of preterm infants less than 30 weeks GA, admitted by UTIN in 2018. The population eligible for qualitative data collection was made up of neonatology nurses from the clinic. To obtain a heterogeneous sample, aspects such as age, work experience, environment, and education were considered. The method of observation and subsequent testing used of the newly designed products and every manipulation under medical conditions was intensely studied. Local reactions, if any, due to the texture and quality of the textile material that come into contact with the baby's skin, were also carefully monitored. The process of dressing and stripping off the products, carrying out medical manipulations (in case of neonatal emergencies), were also carefully observed for developing ease of use clothes.</jats:p

INTERACTION OF CLOTHING IN THERMOREGULATION IN THE CASE OF PRETERM INFANTS

The paper presents a study about the thermoregulation in the case of premature babies and the importance and influence of their clothing in this complex process. The temperature of premature babies has to be between 36.5 - 37.5°C but, hypothermia (axillary temperature &lt;36.5°C) is a common situation. This is primarily due to a large surface area and metabolic mass ratio that results in heat loss. Hypothermia among new-borns is considered an important contributor to neonatal morbidity and mortality. In this context, it has been identified that clothing products are recommended to maintain the optimal body temperature for those born prematurely. The elaborate clothing products aim at maintaining a thermal comfort and certain physiological indicators. Skin temperature and tactile sensations also play an important role in the growth and development of premature babies. In this regard, 15 premature infants were used as study subjects and their temperature profile was recorded. The proposed clothes aimed to maintain the baby's temperature in the normal range and provide a pleasant aesthetic appearance, while helping to improve the medical manipulations to which these children are subjected.</jats:p

VIRTUAL 3D KINEMATIC HUMAN MODEL PROTOTYPE

In the past several years, the application of 3D technologies in the textile and clothing design industry has considerably increased and become more accessible to designers and patternmakers. With digitisation in garment engineering and virtual prototype and modelling techniques becoming more mainstream, a new generation of virtual human models starts to develop to fulfil the demand for protective and functional products designed for specific athletes, such as climbers and mountaineers. We must base our work on an improved understanding of the behaviour of the musculoskeletal system to develop garment patterns that minimise discomfort and improve performance under dynamic body deformations and muscle contractions associated with specific movements. For this study, we explored the possibilities of using existing software packages for virtual prototyping based on human kinematic models for functional clothing.</jats:p

A state-of-the-art Literature Review of Upcycling: A Clothing Industry Perspective

Aim: The purpose of this study is to review and appreciate the developments in the literature of upcycling domain; (i) To comprehend the concept of upcycling and subsequently, understanding the difference among the prominent terminologies used in the literature (ii) To identify application of upcycling across various industries; (iii) To propose a framework of upcycling practices for clothing industries based on the insights. Methodology: A scientific literature review procedure proposed by Mayring (2002) was adopted to select and screen the paper which comprised of four steps; (i) Material collection: The collection of material is well defined and delimited based on the profiling approach. Each paper is defined as unit of analysis; (ii) Descriptive analysis: Different criteria are set to analyze collected materials. These are publication year, journal, methodology and author affiliations; (iii) Category selection: To do analysis different categories have been identified. Further those categories were divided into sub-categories; (iv) Material evaluation: According to above mentioned categorization, research papers are analyzed and interpreted to form a conceptual framework. Result: The paper has identified terminologies and definitions used in the literature. Recycling may be considered as  the use of the material properties (e.g. as a fire retardant non-woven material in a mattress spring cover) (Morley, Bartlett et al. 2009). Down-cycling may be conceptualized as making an inferior product or broken down into raw material. However, several scholars proposed various definitions of upcycling. The prominent may include: (i) Value/quality of product is improved by making superior product. (Dervojeda, Verzijl et al. 2014); (ii) Giving new value to materials that are either discarded, or are not being used anymore" (Fletcher and Grose 2012); (iii) repurposing lower-value items such as a neck scarf to construct a higher-value end use item, such as a wrap skirt or halter top (Janigo and Wu 2015). The results indicated that designing may be considered as one of the important steps in upcycling process. The process of redesigning consists of ideation, reconstruction and fitting. The limitation of redesigning is variability in size and pattern. This can be overcome by; craftsmanship, time, innovation, provenance, desire, narrative. Conclusion: The extant literature revealed that no study so far has attempted to summarize the literature in upcylcing area. Thus, this could be seen as a significant and unique contribution to the literature. Further, the bibliography and insights provided in the study may be used by future scholars as a ready reference for their research.</p