Nuevo procedimiento de cloración de la lana utilizando liposomas unilamelares formados por mezclas de lípidos.

Se investiga la utilización de liposomas formados por fosfatidilcolina (PC) y colesterol (CH) como vehículos de hipoclorito sódico en la cloración de la lana. A tal fin, se ha estudiado la interacción de dichos liposomas a diferentes relaciones molares de ambos componentes (PC:CH desde 10:0 hasta 8:2) con soluciones cloradas a fin de determinar la estabilidad físico-química de los liposomas a la acción de dicho agente oxidante. Su estabilidad física se ha estudiado midiendo tanto los cambios en la absorbancia de dichas suspensiones, directamente relacionados con la agregación o solubilización de los liposomas, como el tamaño medio de sus partículas. El estudio de la estabilidad química de los liposomas se ha basado en la determinación del índice de peroxidación de los lipidos constitutivos de dichos liposomas a diferentes concentraciones de cloro activo a un valor de pH de 6.5. Los efectos oxidativos causados por las soluciones cloradas sobre la lana a pH 1.5 se han estudiado analizando la formación de ácido cisteínico en la lana clorada en función de los tratamientos oxidativos realizados, tanto directamente por el procedimiento convencional como vía liposomas. Cantidades crecientes de colesterol en los liposomas aumentaron la estabilidad fisico-química de estos liposomas frente al agente oxidante y disminuyeron la formación de ácido cisteínico en las muestras de lana clorada.The use of unilamellar liposomes of defined size (200 nm) formed by phosphatidylcholine (PC) and containing cholesterol (CH) as vehicles for oxidative reagents in chlorination of wool fibres has been investigated. To this end, the interaction between lipid vesicles formed by ditferent mixtures of both lipid components (PC:CH mole ratios from 10:0 to 8:2) and chlorine was firstly studied to determine the physicochemical stability of these systems in the presence of this oxidative agent. Similarly, the study of the physical stability of liposomes was undertaken both through the changes in the absorbance of the vesicle suspensions, directly related to the aggregation or solubilization of liposomes, and by measuring the mean particle size distribution of these liposome dispersions. The study of chemical stability was based on the lipid peroxidation index of liposomes at different chlorine concentrations at pH value 6.5. As regards the oxidative effects caused by the chlorine treatments of wool applied directly or by means of liposomes at pH 1.5, the extent of the cysteic acid formation groups in wool fibres was investigated. Increasing amounts of cholesterol in liposomes enhance both the physicochemical stability of these systems and the inhibitory ability of cysteic acid formation when samples have been treated with chlorine-liposome systems.Il s'agit d'étudier l'utilisation de liposomes formés de phosphatidilcholine (PC) et de cholestérol (CH) pour véhiculer l'hypochlorite de sodium dans la chloration de la laine. A cet effet, nous avons étudié l'action entre ces liposomes, avec différents rapports molaires pour les deux composants (PC:CH de 10:0 à 8:2), et les solutions chlorées, afin de déterminer la stabilité physico-chemique des liposomes sous l'action de cet agent oxydant. Leur stabilité physique a été étudiée en mesurant aussi bien les changements dans l'absorptivité de ces suspensions, directement liées a l'agrégation ou a la solubilisation des liposomes, que la taille moyenne de leus particules. Pour étudier la stabilité chimique des liposomes, nous avons déterminé l'indice de peroxydation des lipides constitutifs de ces liposomes a différentes concentrations de chlore actif avec une valeur de pH de 6,5. Les effets oxydatifs causés par les solutions chlorées sur la laine a pH 1,5, ont été étudiés en analysant la formation de l'acide cystéinique dans la laine chlorée en fonction des traitements oxydatifs, réalisés soit directement selon la procédure conventionnelle, soit en passant par les liposomes. Des quantités croissantes de cholestérol dans les liposomes ont augmenté leur stabilité physico-chimique face a l'agent oxydant et ont diminué la formation d'acide cystéinique sur les échantillons de laine chlorée.Peer Reviewe

Innovación tecnológica en la tintura de la lana con colorantes dispersos azoicos vía liposomas.

Se estudia la aplicación de liposomas unilamelares como carriers de colorantes dispersos de tipo azoico en la tintura de la lana. Se utilizaron liposomas unilamelares (L U V) constituidos por fosfatidilcolina de huevo (PC) y que contenían el colorante disperso de tipo azoico CI disperse Orange 1 a diferentes concentraciones relativas fosfolípido/colorante. Se estudió la estabilidad física de dichos liposomas midiendo el tamaño medio de las vesículas después de su preparación y durante el proceso de tintura. Se investigaron asi mismo aspectos cinéticos relacionados con la adsorción y fijación de colorante sobre muestras de lana no pretratada utilizando liposomas a diferentes relaciones molares fosfolípido/colorante. Este proceso conduce a un agotamiento controlado del colorante sobre la lana, que está directamente relacionado con la proporción colorante/fos folípido en los liposomas, mejorando la adsorción de colorante y su fijación a las fibras de lana. Esta aplicación mejora asimismo la eficacia dispersante de estos sistemas con respecto al uso de agentes dispersantes convencionales. La aplicación óptima de estos sistemas tanto en el agotamiento de colorante como en la cantidad total de colorante fijado sobre lana no pretratado está directamente relacionada con la relación en peso colorante/lipido correspondiente al nivel máximo de eficacia de encapsulación del sistema.Unilamellar phospholipid vesicles have been examined as carriers for azo disperse dyes to untreated wool fibres. Liposomes were prepared with egg phosphatidylcholine and containing CI disperse Orange 1 at different phospholipid/dye concentrations. We assessed physical stability by measuring the mean vesicle size of liposome suspensions after preparation and during the dyeing process. Kinetic aspects involving dye adsorption and bonding on untreated wool samples by means of unilamellar vesicles at different dye/lipid molar ratios were also investigated. This process led to the controlled exhaustion of dye in wool samples, which was directly dependent on the relationship existing between the dye and the phospholipid components in liposomes, improving dye adsorption anf dye-fibre bonding. The dispersing efficiency of these systems with regards to the use of conventional dispersing agents has been also improved. The optimum application for both dye exhaustion and total amounts of bonded dye to the untreated wool fibres was directly correlated with the dye/phospholipid weight ratio for the mavimum leve1 of dye encapsulation efficiency.Ce document présente l'étude de l'application de liposomes unilaméllaires comme véhiculeurs de colorants dispersés de type azoíque dans la teinture de la laine. On a utilisé des liposomes unilaméllaires (L U V) constitués de phosphatidicoline d'oeuf (PC) et qui contenaient le colorant dispersé de type azoïque CI Orangé 1 à des concentrations relatives phospholipide/colorant différentes. La stabilité physique de ces liposomes a été étudiée en mesurant la taille moyenne des vésicules après leur préparation et pendant le processus de teinture. Les aspects cinétiques en rapport avec l'absorption et la fixation de colorant sur des échantillons de laine non prétraitée ont également été analysés en utilisant des liposomes de rapports molaires phospholipide/colorant différents. Ce procédé conduit a l'épuisement contrôle du colorant sur la laine, qui est directement lié à la proportion colorant/phospholipide des liposomes. améliorant ainsi l'absorption de colorant et sa fixation aux fibres de laine. Cette application améliore également l'efficacité dispersante de ces systèmes en ce qui concerne l'utilisation d'agents dispersant traditionnels. L'application optimale de ces systèmes, aussi bien à l'épuissement de colorant qu'a la quantité totale de colorant fixé sur la laine non prétraitée, est directamente liée a la relation en poids colorant/lipide correspondant au niveau maximum d'efficacité de inclusion du système.Peer Reviewe

Biofunctional textiles

The aim of the chapter is to state different new possibilities that textile substrates offer for more specialized functions as Biomedical devices, Cos-metics, Skin treatment, and which are the mechanisms involved in such new applications. How to quantify the transport phenomena from the substrate to the skin, or to surrounding different medium, in which they have to be used.Textiles are covering 80% of the human body and a big percentage of that is in close contact with skin. If the system of vehiculization of the active principles is, carefully, designed, the reservoir effect of the polymeric chains of fibers can play a very interesting role in the delivery of the active prin-ciple. Microencapsulation, lipidic aggregates and nanofibers, have shown very promising experimental results. These results will help to other research-ers to develop, more accurate systems, which will valorize textile substrates, fibers and tissues for the use in more sophisticated fields.Peer ReviewedPostprint (published version

Uso alternativo de liposomas mixtos en la dispersión de colorantes antraquinónicos y su vehiculización en la tintura de lana.

Se estudia la aplicación de lipasomas de tamaño de vesícula definido (400 nm) conteniendo cantidades crecientes de colesterol (CH) como carriers de colorantes dispersos de tipo antraquinónico en la tintura de la lana. Se utilizaron vesículas multilamelares (MLV) constituidas por fosfatidilcolina de huevo (PC) y que contenían el colorante disperso de tipo antraquinónico Oracetblau 2R, (C.I. Disperse Violet 1) a diferentes concentraciones relativas PC:CH. Se estudió la estabilidad fisica de dichos liposomas midiendo el tamaño medio de las vesículas después de su preparación y durante el proceso de tintura. Se investigaron asimismo aspectos cinéticos relacionados con la adsorción y fijación de colorante sobre muestras de lana no pretratada utilizando vesiculas multilamelares a diferentes relaciones molares PC:CH. Este proceso conduce a un agotamiento controlado del colorante sobre la lana, que está directamente relacionado con la concentración de fosfolípido en los liposomas. Cantidades crecientes de CH en las bicapas promueven una disminución en el agotamiento del colorante aunque mejoran la cantidad total de colorante fijado a las fibras de lana. Esta aplicación mejora asimismo la eficacia dispersante de estos sistemas con respecto al uso de agentes dispersantes convencionales. La aplicación óptima de estos sistemas tanto en el agotamiento de colorante como en la cantidad total de colorante fijado sobre lana no pretratado está directamente relacionada con la relación en peso de colorante/lipido correspondiente al nivel máximo de eficacia de encapsulación del sistema.Studies on the use of liposomes of defined size (400nm) containing increasing amounts of cholesterol (CH) as carriers of anthraquinone disperse dyes to wool fibres are described. Mu1tilamellar lipid vesicles (MLV) made up by egg phosphatidylcholine (PC) and containing the anthraquinonic disperse dye Oracetblau 2R, (C.I. Disperse Violet 1) at different PC:CH relative concentrations were used. The physical stability was studied by measuring the mean vesicle size of liposome suspensions preparation and during the dyeing process. Kinetic aspects involving dye adsorption and bonding on untreated wool samples by means of multilamellar vesicles at different PC:CH molar ratios wefe also investigated. This process led to the controlled exhaustion of dye in wool samples, which was directly dependent on the liposome lipid concentration. Increasing amounts of CH in bilayers resulted in a decrease in the dye exhaustion although improving the total amounts of the dye bonded to the wool fibres. This potential application also improved the dispersing efficiency of these systems with respect to the use of conventional dispersing agents. The optimum application of these systems both in the dye exhaustion and in the total amounts of bonded dye on untreated wool samples was directly correlated with the dye/lipid weight ratio for the maximum level of dye encapsulation efficiency.On étudie l'application de liposomes mixtes de taille de vésicule définie (400 nm) contenant des quantités croissantes de cholestérol (CH) comme véhicules de colorants dispersé du type anthraquinoneux dans la teinture de la laine. On a utilisé des vésicules multilamellaires (MLV) constituées par de la phosphatidylcholine d'oeuf (PC), contenant le colorant dispersé du type anthraquinoneux Oracetblau 2R, (C.I. Disperse Violet 1) à différentes concentrations relatives PC:CH. On a étudié la stabilité physique desdits liposomes en mesurant la taille moyenne des vésicules après leur préparation et pendant le processus de teinture. On a également fait des recherches sur des aspects cinétiques relationnés avec l'adsorption et la fixation des colorants sur des échantillons de laine non prétaitée en utilisant des vésicules multilamellaires à diverses relations mulaires PC:CH. Ce processus mêne a un épuisement contrôlé du colorant sur la laine, en relation directe avec la concentration de phospholipide dans les liposomes. Des quantités croissantes de CH dans les bicouches entraînent une diminution dans l'épuisement du colorant bien qu'elles améliorent la quantité totale de colorant fixé aux fibres de laine. Cette application améliore également l'efficacité dispersante de ces systèmes par rapport a l'utilisation d'agents dispersants conventionnaux. L'appliquation optimale de ces systèmes, aussi bien dans l'épuisement du colorant que dans la quantité totale de colorant fixé sur de la laine non prétraitée, est en relation directe avec la proportion en poids de colorant/lipide correspondant au niveau maximum d'efficacité d'encapsulation du système.Peer Reviewe

Uso de liposomas industriales en la tintura de la lana a nivel de planta piloto, usando colorantes del tipo complejo metálico 1:2.

Se ha investigado la aplicación de una suspensión de liposomas de tipo comercial de fosfatidilcolina de tamaño definido (aproximadamente de 100 nm) como transportador del colorante azoico de complejo metálico 1:2 "Lanaset Yellow 2R" sobre fibras de lana no tratada a nivel de planta piloto. A fin de explorar la influencia de las condiciones experimentales sobre el proceso de tintura y sobre las propiedades de los hilos teñidos se ha utilizado un modelo factorial de Box y Behnken pata tres variables. A partir de los resultados de este estudio de optimización podemos concluir que el uso de liposomas comerciales es adecuado pata teñir lana a temperaturas inferiores y/o menores períodos de tiempo que aquellos necesarios en tinturas convencionales de lana. Así, la tintura de la lana pudo realizarse a 80°C usando liposomas al 1-2% sobre peso de lana con un nivel satisfactorio de agotamiento y fjación del colorante sobre la fibra y buenas propiedades mecánicas y de tacto. La principal novedad de este procedimiento es el uso de liposomas comerciales como un simple aditivo de baño de tintura. Concentraciones crecientes de liposomas en el baño de tintura mejoraron a altas temperaturas el agotamiento del colorante sobre la fibra. Sin embargo, la fijación de colorante sobre la fibra a estas temperaturas fue independiente de la concentración de liposomas, aunque dependió de la concentración de colorante. El uso de liposomas mejoró en todos los casos el efecto de igualado del colorante con relación al uso de auxiliares convencionales. Aunque la concentración de liposomas no afectó significativamente las propiedades mecánicas de los hilos, se identificó una concentración óptima de liposomas capaz de mejorar sus caracteristicas de tacto (fricción hilo-hilo).The use of a commercial type of suspension of phosphatidylcholine liposome of a defined size (approximatively 100 nm) as a carrier of complex metallic azoic dye 1,2 "Lanaset Yellow 2R" on untreated wool fibres in a pilot plant was examined. To study the influence of experimental conditions on the dyeing process and on the properties of the dyed yarn, a Box and Behnken factorial model for three variables was used. The results obtained in this optimisation study allow us to conclude that commercial liposomes are suitable for dyeing of wool at lower temperatures and/or shorter periods of time than those necessary for conventional wool dyeing. Thus, wool dyeing was carried out at a temperature of 80° using liposomes at 1-2% of wool weight with a satisfactory level of exhaustion and colour fixing on the fibre and good mechanical and tactile properties. The main novelty of this procedure is the use of commercial liposomes as a simple additive to the dye bath. Increased concentrations of liposomes in the dye bath improved dye exhaustion on the fibre at high temperatures. Nevertheless, colour fixing on the fibre at these temperatures was independent of the liposome concentration, although it did depend on dye concentration. In all cases the use of liposomes improved colour uniformity as compared to conventional auxiliaries. Although liposome concentration did not have any significant effect on the mechanical properties of the yarn, an optimum liposome concentration was identified which was capable of improving tactile characteristics (yarn-yarn friction).Nous avons fait des recherches sur l'application d'une suspension de liposomes de type commercial de phosphatidilcholine d'une certaine taille (environ 100 nm) pour transporter le colorant azoique de complexe métallique 1:2 "Lanasel Yellow 2R" sur des fibres de laine non traitée a un niveau d'usine pilote. Pour explorer l'influence des conditions expérimentales sur le cycle de teinture et sur les propriétés des fils teints, nous avons utilisé un modele industriel de Box et Behnken pour trois variables. A partir des résultats de cette étude convient à la teinture de la laine à des températures inférieures et/ou avec des durées de cycles également inférieures a celles de la teinture conventionnelle de la laine. Ainsi, nous avons pu teindre la laine à 80°C avec des liposomes employés a raison de 1-2% du poids de laine, avec un niveau satisfaisant quant mécaniques et un touceur intéressant. La principale nouveauté consiste a employer des liposomes commerciaux comme un simple adjuvant du bain de teinture. Des concentrations croissantes de liposomes dans le vain de teinture, à hautes températures, ont amélioré l'épuisement du colorant sur la fibre. Néanmoins, la fixation du colorant sur la fibre s'est avérée indépendante de la concentration des liposomes, mais dépéndante en revanche de la concentration du colorant. Dans tous les cas, les liposomes ont amélioré l'effet uniforme du colorant par rapport a l'import d'adjuvants conventionnels. Bien que la concentration des liposomes n'ait pas eu d'incidence significative sur les propriétés mécaniques des fils, nous avons identifié une concentration optimale de liposomes, capable d'améliorer les caractéristiques de toucher (friction fil contre fil).Peer Reviewe

Thermal Analysis of Healthy and Ecological Friendly Flame Retardants for Textiles

Flame Retardants (FR) are a group of anthropogenic environmental contaminants used at a relatively high concentration in many applications. Currently, the largest marked group of FRs is halogenated FR, and many of them are considered toxic, persistent and bio accumulative. Non-halogenated alternatives are a possible solution for the problem, but there is a lack of knowledge concerning environmental impact, health risks during the production process and final use. The main objective of the LIFE-FLAREX project that supports this work, is the mitigation of the environmental and human health impact of flame retardants used in textiles, looking for new efficient more ecological and healthy alternatives, able to replace the most common FR’s that include toxic compounds like halogens, formaldehyde and antimony.  The aim of this work   is to determine the effect of conventional and ecological flame retardants on cotton and polyester fabrics by the application of differential scanning calorimetry DSC and thermogravimetric analysis TGA. Results have been compared with those given by the best FR applied to cotton/polyester blended fabric. The application of DSC up to 550°Cand TGA up to 600°C in N2 and O2 atmospheres give results that are in accordance with those yielded by the micro-scale combustion calorimeter. Onset temperatures  of decomposition, steps of loss of mass by temperature and final residues, enable to evaluate the thermal efficiency of the different flame retardants. Results have been compared with those given by the application of ammonium polyphosphate and guanidine phosphate on cotton/polyester 50/50 blend. Keywords: Thermal Analysis, Flame retardant, Cotton, Polyeste

Permeation Protection by Waterproofing Mucosal Membranes

The permeability of the oral or nasal mucosa is higher than that of the skin. Mucosa permeability depends mainly on the thickness and keratinization degree of the tissues. Their permeability barrier is conditioned by the presence of certain lipids. This work has the main aim of reinforcing the barrier effect of oral mucosa with a series of formulations to reduce permeation. Transmembrane water loss of different formulations was evaluated, and three of them were selected to be tested on the sublingual mucosa permeation of drugs. Caffeine, ibuprofen, dexamethasone, and ivermectin were applied on porcine skin, mucosa, and modified mucosa in order to compare the effectiveness of the formulations. A similar permeation profile was obtained in the different membranes: caffeine > ibuprofen~dexamethasone > ivermectin. The most efficient formulation was a liposomal formulation composed of lipids that are present in the skin stratum corneum. Impermeability provided by this formulation was notable mainly for the low-molecular-weight compounds, decreasing their permeability coefficient by between 40 and 80%. The reinforcement of the barrier function of mucosa provides a reduction or prevention of the permeation of different actives, which could be extrapolated to toxic compounds such as viruses, contaminants, toxins, etc.Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas “Modificación de la mucosa como protección frente al SARS-CoV-2” (CSIC-COV19-130

Lipid distribution on ethnic hairs by Fourier transform infrared synchrotron spectroscopy

Background A synchrotron-based Fourier transform infrared micro-spectrometer (µ-FTIR) allows the spatial determination of lipids across the different layers of ethnic hairs and differentiates between the lipid order arrangement and quantity. Materials and methods The three ethnic fibers were delipidized, the lipid extracts were characterized, and the delipidized fibers were studied by dynamic vapor sorption experiments (DVS) and FTIR-synchrotron techniques. Results The average spectra from the different hair regions exhibited the most intense CH2 sym peaks on the medulla, followed by those from the cuticle and cortex for all hairs of different ethnicities. Differences in the lipid fraction of the three hair types have been observed, and they can explain some barrier properties. African virgin hair was demonstrated to have more lipids mainly in the medulla, which implies an important hydrophobicity with low hysteresis between absorption and desorption water vapor processes. In addition, these lipids are highly disordered, mainly in the cuticle, which can be related to its high water vapor diffusion. Asian and Caucasian virgin hairs presented a similar lipid order in all regions, with similar diffusion coefficients. Results indicate that the higher order of the lipid bilayer hinders water permeation kinetics in some way. Conclusion The differences in the presence and organization of the lipids in the different regions of the African hair can account for its differentiation with regards to moisturization and swelling from the other types of fibersSupport for this work from CTQ CTQ2018-094014-B-100 is gratefullyacknowledged. Moreover the authors acknowledge the MIRAS beam-line at ALBA Synchrotron for the grant and the ALBA staff for theirexpert assistancePostprint (published version

Flame retardant textile finishing: thermal analysis and dermal security

Many flame retardants (FRs) are brominated, and many of them are considered toxic, persistent and/or bio accumulative. A switch to non-halogenated alternatives for textile finishing is considered beneficial, but there is little knowledge about their environmental impact, their health risks during the production process and those in their final use. A conventional and an alternative FR (based on dialkyl phosphono carboxylic acid amine and ammonium sulfamate; urea and organophosphonate PO(OH)2-R-PO(OH)2, respectively) were applied to cotton fabrics that could be in touch with the skin in their final use. Burning and thermal behaviors and dermal toxicity when exposed to skin rubbing are evaluated. Fabrics treated show that both FR products act as FRs. The increase in the thermal stability of the tissue that causes an increase in the decomposition temperature is a relevant effect associated with the application of the conventional FR in the tissue, while the most important effect of the alternative FR lies in the increase of the residue at 600°C, associated with the generation of fewer volatiles, which has an impact on the intensity of combustion. The study of the dermal toxic potential of FR-treated cotton bed sheets showed that the two tested products do not penetrate into the skin when applied under the conditions used and were safe when in contact with the skin. Moreover, the alternative FR seems to be safer when in contact with the skin considering also its higher concentration in the textileThe present work could not be performed without the collaboration and contribution of the Service of Dermocosmetic Assessment and the Service of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry “Josep Carrilla both from IQAC-CSIC. Besides the authors wish to thank the Ministerio de Ciencia, Innovación y Universidades (RTI2018-09014-B-100 Project) and the EU (Mitigation of environmental impact caused by Flame Retardant textile finishing chemicals. LIFE-FLAREX. Life 16 ENV/ES/000374) for financial supportPostprint (author's final draft