Bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the swash zone: Observations with a new conductivity-based concentration measuring technique (CCM+)

Detailed measurements of bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the lower swash are presented. The measurements are obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focusing on swash zone sediment transport induced by bichromatic waves. A new instrument (CCM+) provides detailed phase-averaged measurements of sheet flow concentrations, particle velocities, and bed level evolution during a complete swash cycle. The bed at the lower swash location shows a clear pattern of rapid erosion during the early uprush and progressive accretion during the middle backwash phase. Sheet flow occurs during the early uprush and mid and late backwash phases. Sheet flow sediment fluxes during these instances are highest in the pick-up layer. Sediment entrainment from the pick-up layer occurs not only during instances of high horizontal shear velocities but also in occurrence of wave–backwash interactions. As opposed to oscillatory sheet flow, the pivot point elevation of the sheet flow layer is time-varying during a swash event. Moreover, the upper sheet flow layer concentrations do not mirror the concentrations in the pick-up layer. Both differences suggest that in the lower swash zone the dynamics of the upper sheet flow layer are not only controlled by vertical sediment exchange (such as in oscillatory sheet flows) but are strongly affected by horizontal advection processes induced by the non-uniformity of the flow

Sand transport processes and bed level changes induced by two alternating laboratory swash events

Sand transport processes and net transport rates are studied in a large-scale laboratory swash zone. Bichromatic waves with a phase modulation were generated, producing two continuously alternating swash events that have similar offshore wave statistics but which differ in terms of wave-swash interactions. Measured sand suspension and sheet flow dynamics show strong temporal and spatial variability, related to variations in flow velocity and locations of wave capture and wave-backwash interactions. Suspended and sheet flow layer transport rates in the lower swash zone are generally of same magnitude, but sheet flow exceeds the suspended load transport by up to a factor four during the early uprush. The bed level near the inner surf zone is relatively steady during a swash cycle, but changes of (cm/s) are measured near the mid swash zone where wave-swash interactions lead to strongly non-uniform flows. The two alternating swash events produce a dynamic equilibrium, with bed level changes up to a few mm induced by single swash events, but with net morphodynamic change over multiple events that is two orders of magnitude lower. Most of the intra-swash and the single-event-averaged bed level changes in the swash zone are caused by a redistribution of sediment within the swash. The transport of sediment across the surf-swash boundary is minor at intra-swash time scale, but becomes increasingly significant at swash-averaged time scales or longer (i.e., averaged over multiple swash events)

Reconstruction of sediment-transport pathways on a modern microtidal coast by a new grain-size trend analysis method

A new method for granulometric-parameter-based reconstruction of sediment-transport pathways is proposed and is termed P-GSTA (grain-size trend analysis using principal component analysis) herein. The main advantage of this method is its applicability to depositional environments involving mixed transport processes, for instance, fluvial, tidal, and wave-influenced environments. In the P-GSTA method, a linear function with all significant granulometric parameters that are summed with different weighting factors was used to infer sediment-transport direction (sediment flux pattern); the previous grain-size trend analysis (GSTA) methods considered only three parameters (mean grain size, sorting, and skewness) with equal weighting. This study chose six parameters (namely, median grain size, coefficient of variation, skewness, kurtosis, and mud and gravel log-ratios) for calculation. First, the zero values of mud and gravel fractions are replaced, and their log-ratios are defined. Then, all values are standardized. Thereafter, principal component analysis (PCA) is conducted to determine the weighting factor of each granulometric parameter. Each principal component is then interpreted, and the function best representing a sediment flux pattern is chosen from these components. Trend vectors are calculated, solely on the basis of a map interpolated from the scores of the chosen principal component, as the two-dimensional gradient of this value. The P-GSTA method proposed in this study was applied to a modern microtidal coast (tidal sand flat along the Kushida River Delta, central Japan). Sediment-transport pathways reconstructed by this method were consistent with observed sediment-transport patterns determined by field experiments using tracer sediments and geomorphologic observation; the results of the previous GSTA method were inconsistent with the observations. The proposed method also revealed additional minor depositional processes on the sand flat, namely, the deposition of fluvial-channel lags and muddy particles. Thus, this study demonstrates that the proposed P-GSTA method is a potentially powerful tool to reconstruct sediment-transport patterns even under mixed transport processes, where the estimation of the sediment-transport function is difficult

Advances in the study of moving sediments and evolving seabeds

Sands and mud are continually being transported around the world's coastal seas due to the action of tides, wind and waves. The transport of these sediments modifies the boundary between the land and the sea, changing and reshaping its form. Sometimes the nearshore bathymetry evolves slowly over long time periods, at other times more rapidly due to natural episodic events or the introduction of manmade structures at the shoreline. For over half a century we have been trying to understand the physics of sediment transport processes and formulate predictive models. Although significant progress has been made, our capability to forecast the future behaviour of the coastal zone from basic principles is still relatively poor. However, innovative acoustic techniques for studying the fundamentals of sediment movement experimentally are now providing new insights, and it is expected that such observations, coupled with developing theoretical works, will allow us to take further steps towards the goal of predicting the evolution of coastlines and coastal bathymetry. This paper presents an overview of our existing predictive capabilities, primarily in the field of non-cohesive sediment transport, and highlights how new acoustic techniques are enabling our modelling efforts to achieve greater sophistication and accuracy. The paper is aimed at coastal scientists and managers seeking to understand how detailed physical studies can contribute to the improvement of coastal area models and, hence, inform coastal zone management strategie